We’re dreaming of a white (dog) Christmas

In the world of whisky, focus has traditionally been on the complexities that arise from long years of ageing. It is within those barrels that flavours are mellowed, transformed, and elevated into what many consider the epitome of craftsmanship. However, a different aspect of whisky production has been gaining attention in recent years – the new make spirit, also known as “white whisky” or “white dog.”

Once considered merely a prelude to the final product, new make spirit is increasingly being recognised as a valuable and distinct category within the whisky industry. Particularly in the United Kingdom, where an influx of innovative distilleries has reignited interest in unaged whisky, new make spirit offers a unique perspective on flavour, craftsmanship, and tradition.

New make spirit offers a glimpse into the underlying character of a distillery’s whisky. Without the influence of wood ageing, the flavours in new make spirit come directly from the grain, yeast, water, and distillation process, revealing the raw essence of what a distillery can bring to its final products. For whisky lovers, tasting new make spirit allows for an understanding of a distillery’s unique style and quality right from the start.

For example, if a distillery like Bruichladdich produces a fruity, creamy, and smooth new make, it signals that even its aged expressions will carry that underlying profile, influenced by the unique techniques and ingredients used. Similarly, a spicy, earthy new make from Oxford Artisan Distillery reflects the distinct heritage rye grain they use. These base notes persist in aged expressions, but in new make, they’re at their most vibrant and raw, making it an excellent preview of the flavour profile that will mature in future releases.

This insight is especially valuable in young or experimental distilleries, where the new make spirit provides a direct way to demonstrate potential and showcase craftsmanship well before aged releases are available.

New make spirit is, in essence, whisky in its most unadulterated form. Unlike traditional aged whisky, which develops complexity over years in oak barrels, new make spirit captures the raw and immediate flavours of the ingredients. The absence of wood influence allows the flavour of the grain, water, and yeast to take centre stage, delivering a profile that is fruity, floral, or malty, depending on the techniques and materials used. This provides an opportunity to taste the intrinsic characteristics of a distillery’s spirit without the mellowing effects of maturation, offering a glimpse into the distillery’s DNA.

For example, the Cotswolds Distillery in England produces a new make spirit with a profile that showcases the essence of their locally sourced barley. The Cotswolds New Make Spirit presents bold malty notes, rich with fruitiness and floral hints. As it is crafted from 100% malted barley, the spirit possesses a thick mouthfeel and a fresh, lively character that reflects the essence of the Cotswolds terroir. For whisky enthusiasts, tasting this spirit is akin to tasting the roots of the distillery’s journey, providing an insight into the core qualities that later emerge in their aged whisky.

In another example, Annandale Distillery stands out for its commitment to crafting both peated and unpeated spirits, allowing enthusiasts to experience two distinct expressions of its new make. The peated variant, known for its subtle smoky notes, harks back to traditional practices in Scotland where peat was used as fuel, imbuing the spirit with earthy undertones. In contrast, the unpeated expression showcases the sweet, malty essence of the barley, combined with light, fruity notes.

What sets Annandale’s new make spirit apart is its attention to quality at every stage of production. The distillery employs meticulously selected barley, natural spring water, and copper pot stills, which lend the spirit its signature character. The resulting distillate boasts an impressive balance of richness and clarity, offering hints of pear, green apple, and a gentle cereal sweetness.

Similarly, Bruichladdich on the Isle of Islay produces a distinct new make spirit that highlights the coastal influence of the distillery’s location. Their Bruichladdich New Make is non-peated, unlike many of its Islay counterparts, which brings forth a surprisingly sweet and creamy spirit with a smooth, fruity finish. This expression serves as a testament to the versatility and craftsmanship of Bruichladdich, as they offer an unaged spirit that embodies the unique characteristics of their processes and provenance.

The recent rise of craft distilleries across the UK has played a significant role in popularising new make spirit, with many distillers embracing this category as a playground for experimentation. For many young distilleries, ageing whisky can be a financial challenge, as the time and costs involved require significant upfront investment. New make spirit has thus become a means for these distilleries to establish a brand presence while allowing their aged products to mature. This approach has fostered a climate of creativity, with distillers experimenting with unique grains, yeast strains, and fermentation techniques to produce a vast array of flavours in their new make offerings.

The Oxford Artisan Distillery exemplifies this experimental approach. Known for their commitment to using heritage grains, the distillery crafts a new make spirit that is anything but conventional. The Oxford Rye New Make Spirit uses ancient rye grains, which deliver an intense, spicy profile with earthy undertones and a distinctive texture. These rare grains are not only a nod to historic British agricultural practices but also provide a depth of flavour that is unique to the Oxfordshire terroir. For enthusiasts and collectors, such offerings provide an opportunity to experience a truly singular spirit that may not exist in the aged whisky realm.

Equally compelling is the approach taken by the Kingsbarns Distillery in Fife, Scotland. Kingsbarns produces a fruity and delicate new make spirit, crafted with local Fife barley and distilled with the intention of producing a light, floral profile. Their meticulous attention to the distillation process and high standards for ingredient sourcing mean that their new make spirit has gained a reputation as one of the cleanest, most elegant expressions available. It highlights how new make can serve as a brand-defining product, setting Kingsbarns apart and offering drinkers an early insight into their whisky’s distinctive qualities before it undergoes the transformative influence of oak.

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Image © 2024 www.cotswoldsdistillery.com

For established distilleries, new make spirit offers a powerful way to connect with a new generation of drinkers who value transparency and education. Many distilleries now offer tasting experiences where visitors can sample new make spirit alongside aged expressions. This journey from grain to glass allows whisky enthusiasts to understand the role of maturation in shaping whisky’s character, showcasing the flavours that come from the spirit itself as opposed to the barrel.

The BenRiach Distillery in Speyside, for instance, offers visitors a taste of their new make spirit, allowing them to compare it directly with aged single malts. The BenRiach New Make presents a distinctly fruity and nutty character, highlighting the Speyside terroir and the distillery’s delicate approach to fermentation. When sampled alongside BenRiach’s older expressions, the experience underscores how the character of the new make spirit evolves into a mature whisky, helping drinkers develop a profound appreciation for both the art of distillation and the science of maturation.

In the case of Edradour, one of Scotland’s smallest traditional distilleries, the new make spirit demonstrates the influence of slow, careful production on flavour. Known for their handmade processes and small-scale production, Edradour’s New Make has a rich, oily texture with an earthy backbone and subtle notes of fruit. This spirit allows visitors a transparent view into the heart of the Edradour experience and showcases how traditional methods, such as small-batch distillation, influence the foundational characteristics of their renowned single malts.

New make spirit has also found a place in the mixology world, where its bold and unaged profile is used to create cocktails with a distinct character. Its robust flavours make it an ideal base for cocktails that benefit from its lively, raw edge—an attribute that stands apart from the smoother, more rounded qualities of aged whisky. Many mixologists are finding that new make spirit adds a refreshing twist to classic whisky cocktails, breathing new life into old favourites and inspiring modern creations.

For example, mixologists at London’s acclaimed Whisky Bar at Milroy’s use Kingsbarns New Make in inventive cocktails that play on the spirit’s floral and fruit-forward notes. In a twist on the traditional whisky sour, they pair the Kingsbarns New Make with elderflower liqueur and fresh citrus to create a cocktail that is simultaneously fresh, aromatic, and strikingly bold.

Likewise, Bruichladdich’s New Make has been incorporated into cocktails at The Finnieston, a popular Glasgow bar, where its sweet and creamy profile complements vibrant mixers. These cocktails introduce patrons to a different side of whisky while still allowing the core flavours of the distillery’s new make spirit to shine through, creating a unique experience that appeals to whisky aficionados and newcomers alike.

The rising popularity of new make spirit signifies a broader shift within the whisky industry, one that embraces both innovation and a commitment to transparency. By inviting drinkers to taste whisky in its most elemental form, distilleries are fostering a sense of authenticity and connection with consumers. The increasing demand for new make spirit reflects a desire for unfiltered experiences that place the spotlight on craftsmanship and provenance. It is no longer just the matured end product that whisky lovers seek, but a deeper understanding of the process that brings it to life.

With new make spirit, the whisky industry is finding a way to bridge the old with the new, offering something timeless yet fresh. This burgeoning category empowers distilleries to showcase their individuality, experiment with bold new approaches, and foster a community of educated consumers who appreciate the rich journey from raw spirit to mature whisky. While aged whisky will always hold a special place, new make spirit embodies the essence of whisky’s adventurous future.

As distilleries across the UK continue to innovate, new make spirit will no doubt play a central role, inviting us all to celebrate not just the final destination, but the journey that whisky takes to get there.